Nestled on Trebević mountain, winds an abandoned bobsleigh track built for the 1984 Winter Olympics. It has since been left to let nature and war reclaim it. It now shows its age and disrepair through graffiti, moss growth on the siding, bullet holes, and the crumbling concrete.
Our hike down from the cable cars. They are happy camperswhen they get to run free.
It is not far from the city center of Sarajevo and to get to it you can either hike up the steep hills that surround the city, take a taxi, or enjoy going up the newly rebuilt cable cars and hiking back down. People often stop to check out the track when they are out exploring the paved paths through the mountain.
It was cool to walk the track. This is B’s version of kick the can–kick the pine cone.
After the Olympics, they continued to use the track during World Cup competitions. Unfortunately, its use came to an end during the Siege of Sarajevo. It is hard to imagine that during the 90’s the curving lanes were used for strategic artillery positions by Serb forces.
The loneliness of an abandoned bobsled track that has seen its glory days and has seen the ugly days of war, is a strange juxtaposition. The dark days that it has seen may be lifting. I have heard tales of reconstruction, but I did not see any evidence of that today. Time will tell.
If you are interested in getting your family involved in your running life, here are some ideas of where to start.
Family hikes and after dinner walks. I think this may be the key. It helps kids if they have a base-level of ability. It isn’t running, but it is activity on their feet. Hiking and walking allow them to build stamina, be familiar with what it feels like to be on their feet for some time, and what a certain distance feels like. We always try to have fun on our walks too, spotting a certain number of interesting things to discuss, or talking about their day. We try to make it a special time to talk and enjoy each other, while also taking in nature or observing the city.
Support each other. If only one of the parents is a runner, it is important that the non-runner is supportive and understands why they should foster a love of activity. My husband is not a runner, but he will lace up his shoes and do a 5k with the family because he wants to model a healthy lifestyle for them.
Encourage. It is important that children feel like they have a voice and say in the matter, so ask them if they are interested in a fun run. If they aren’t sure, explain how fun it is, how it is good for their bodies, and that they don’t have to run the whole thing if they get tired. Keep it upbeat and positive. I would suggest not making jokes about how hard it is, or they may miss the joking part.
Run with them. Sometimes I am doing a longer run and cannot run with them, but my husband always does. He will push our younger one in the stroller and our older one runs alongside. If the starting times are different or on a different day, I always love the opportunity to run with my kids. I also seek out fun runs that are meant just as family events, like the Zoo run in Boise, where we can focus on them completely as little runners. There are usually lots of fun activities before and after for kids too.
Celebrate and reward. Letting your child pick out new running shoes and clothes can be a little extra boost of excitement for them. Consider saving them for race day to make it feel special. When they complete their race, make them feel special. It is a big accomplishment when anyone finishes a race and even more impressive when your little one can do it. We celebrate by getting ice cream or cake, their choice.
Read children’s books about running.
Start young with short distances. I signed our son up for a 2.5 km trail run when he was 2.5 years old. He loved it! He was familiar with the area from our family hikes on the weekends. He ran, walked, and explored the 2.5 km.
Our daughter did her first race when she was 1.5 years old. She did a .25 mile last summer that the local zoo put on. She is the biggest animal lover, so she stopped to appreciate the bunnies, then continued on her way.
I loved that I got to run through the mangroves with B on this 3.5 km race. We even climbed to the top of a wooden lookout tower to get a better view of the ocean and mangroves. His decision.
Run Wild at the Boise Zoo. Lady H’s first race (.25 mile). I got to run with B on his 1 mile run.
Rayong, Thailand trail run.
Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina 4km run with Mr. G. Pretty epic picture–Lady H in her chariot.
A little pre-workout warm up.
Split, Croatia 5 km race for Mr. G and B. Lady H got to snuggle in blankets and go along for the ride.
Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina Spring 5 km run with B. I got to run with him and was super impressed with him finishing in 36 minutes!
It is good for your children to see you leading by example.
Krabi is truly a unique experience. You will get limestone formations, caves that are on the coastline and inland, beautiful sandy beaches, fresh seafood at an after sunset barbecue, mangroves, rock climbing, monkeys, island hopping, and a chill party scene.
2. Kuching, Borneo, Malaysia
If you dig jungle and sea, this is your place. We spent most of our days in lush jungle, but spent our evenings on the beach. There are loads of national parks in the region, as well as ample opportunity to explore beautiful coastline.
3. Luang Prabang, Laos
This is up there as one of my favorite places I have traveled. It is the definition of chill. Everything moves slow and easy. It is an ideal place to practice Buddhism, which is why you see monks nearly wherever you go. It is along the Mekong River, where you will mostly likely see elephants taking baths, along with local children and even orange-robed monks. It is part traditional Laos, part colonial, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is definitely worth a visit.
4. Siem Reap, Cambodia
Angkor Wat is one of the Wonders of the World and with good reason. This is an absolute must. We loved it so much we went twice. I wouldn’t mind going again, actually. It is the largest religious monument in the world, packed full of ancient temples. Interesting fact, it was built during the Khmer Empire, starting as a Hindu monument and over time evolved into Buddhist monuments in the 12th century. It shows up on their flag and has been studied for centuries. It is sort of the ultimate SE Asian experience. If you go, pay attention to all the detailed carvings. You must also stick around for a sunset or two within Angkor Wat. You won’t regret it.
Pretty cool entrance.
5. Koh Lipe, Thailand
If you like white sand beaches, scuba diving or snorkeling, and turquoise waters, this is your place. This was hands down my favorite place in Thailand. It was a bit of a trek to get to, but worth it. If you are coming from Bangkok, you fly to Hat Yai, bus a few hours to the ferry, and then catch a fairly short ferry ride to the island. Island life will await you. The food is spicy and flavorful, the sun is pretty much guaranteed, and there isn’t much to do beyond lay around on perfect sandy beaches–all things I look for in an island.
Nice side note, they are making an honest effort to be more environmentally friendly by having tourists buy a reusable water bottle and filling them up around different restaurants and shops instead of buying disposable plastic water bottles.
6. Ubud, Bali, Indonesia
There is a lot to explore on Bali. It is a place you could visit over and over and still have more to see. Ubud is a great place to stay, but expect to explore other nearby towns. We rented a scooter and went around the island in a day. We took day trips to neighboring towns and islands to spend more time in each place. Ubud is great place to station yourself because of its focus on the arts, green location next to the mountains, and cultural history. On the main street, you find art galleries, art museums, craft shops, and art studios. Don’t miss the Ubud Monkey Forest, a natural forest sanctuary, the Tegallalang rice terraces, and the Pura Taman Saraswati temple.
7. Chiang Rai, Thailand
It is like Chiang Mai’s little sister, but arguably cooler and vastly overlooked. It is yet another chill place in Thailand with good food. Thailand tends to offer those attributes in most towns you will visit, but this one has fewer tourists, making you feel like you discovered one of the last few secret places in the country. One can plan some pretty cool trips from Chiang Rai to more remote areas. We did not get the chance travel outside of Chiang Rai (I was uber pregnant and just didn’t have it in me), but will go back someday and go into the mountainous jungles that are nearby. The White Temple is the main attraction, which is super cool, but don’t miss out seeing the Golden Triangle where Myanmar, Thailand, and Laos meet on the Mekong River. Save time for visiting tea plantations–they are a lesser known tour option, but ask your driver or hotel if they can arrange a visit for you. We learned about the process white, green, and black tea leaves go through and were able go pick some leaves ourselves. I was also really impressed with the Baan Dam Museum, or Black House. The teak wood structures were darkly weird and interesting.
8. HoiAn, Vietnam
Not to be confused with Hanoi, this is a riverfront town that offers some serious beauty. Rent a bicycle and tour around the temples and get yourself to a beach. Eat the local pho, fresh springrolls, or pretty much any of the street food. It is famous for its food–you would be hard-pressed to go wrong with anything you order. We took a boat ride along the river for a different perspective and to watch people fishing. You can even have a custom made pair of shoes made while you are there. They can make whatever you want.
9. Ayutthaya, Thailand
Ayutthaya is the second ancient capital of Thailand, north of Bangkok. Fighting for more power, Ayutthaya Kingdom seemed to be in constant war with the Burmese and the Khmer Kingdom in Cambodia. At one point in the 1700s, it was the largest city in the world. In 1767 the Burmese burned it to the ground. There are the remains of temples, palaces, and monasteries left that offer some insight into what it was like. Ayutthaya is UNESCO World Heritage Site with an interesting orientation–it is an island surrounded by the Chao Phraya River, the Lopburi River and the Pa Sak River. It is easy to get to by ferry.
10. Bagan, Myanmar
Bagan is all about temples, hot-air balloon rides, and sunsets. It offers the densest concentration of pagodas, temples, and stupas built around the 11th and 12th century. When you are in any elevated area, you see these ruins for as far as you can see. Take the most impressive hot-air balloon ride in the world to see over 1,000 temples. We hired a driver and ended up seeing some really cool places. He had a key to some of the locked temples, showing us around and explaining the significance of each. Take some time to visit the Irrawaddy River while you are there.
There are so many places to see in Southeast Asia, but I tried to keep it down to my personal favorites. There are other places in Thailand that I love, like Khao Sok National Park, the whole Pattaya area, Hua Hin, Koh Samui, Khao Yai, Kanchanaburi, Koh Samet, and Rayong. In Vietnam, Hanoi and Saigon are both cool places to see. I only wrote about places I have personally been, but I wish I had visited Halong Bay and Sapa, both in Northern Vietnam. I never got to the Philippines, but heard really amazing things about Cebu and Palawan. Hopefully, some day in the future I can check out more. It is such a culturally diverse and interesting place. I think that one could live a lifetime there and still have more places to see.
I would love to hear what your top 10 places in Southeast Asia would be! Post in the comments what you think.
“One doesn’t discover new lands without consenting to lose sight, for a very long time, of the shore.”
Our first year is coming to a close in Sarajevo. We will be back for another, but I thought it warranted reflection after having some time to take in our new home.
The year was full of celebrations, festivals and activities at our school, exploring new restaurants and foods, seeing ancient castles, fun runs, long runs, learning about Balkan history through people, books, and museums, experiencing a new culture, making new and interesting friends, and encountering ample travel opportunity. To keep it real, the year also brought some of my most stressful times. I had my first panic attacks. It is hard to move to a new place, figure out a new job, figure out where things are, learn how the country ticks, always be emerged in an unfamiliar language–all of that with two little people that take priority and need their well-being taken of, along with some normalcy. There are certainly trade-offs living overseas, but they are well worth it to us. I think we came out the other side stronger and more capable, so I am going to focus on the positives and be grateful for all that we have and get to do. We live in a strong and vibrant international community, have excellent teaching jobs and consequently, an excellent school for B, and get to travel the world.
Seasons are really how I experienced Sarajevo. After the endless summer that is Thailand, the changing seasons helped mark the time. I am going to break our experience into fall, winter, and spring.
This is my absolute favorite time of the year. It was the first time we had experienced cooler temperatures in years, and we soaked it in. Sarajevo is a city packed with trees and foliage, which naturally is striking in the fall. The changing colors made me fall in love with this city.
We were introduced to much of Bosnia in this first season. I’ll start with the food–it is mostly meat, cheese, and bread. Ćevapi is the main dish, which is pita bread and a type of sausage. There is burek, a flaky pastry with meat, cheese, or spinach inside. There are large meat platters that are popular. They have klepe and dolma. But, some of my favorites things are the Bosnian coffee and the baklava, preferably served together. Also, the wine and beer have been a pleasant improvement from previous places we lived. I should also mention that it is all really affordable. It is far cheaper than surrounding countries in Eastern Europe. One can buy a meal of burek for 3 km, or about a $1.70 usd.
I have observed that Bosnians seem to have found a good balance between being extremely friendly and strong-minded. Sarajevo is a small city with a population of about 275,000 and I think that adds to the small-town vibe where you see people stopped in the middle of the road, talking with their windows rolled down. You see people constantly running into people they know. I have had strangers help me, whether it was giving me their gloves in an unexpected snowstorm, or seeing if I needed help after twisting my ankle on a run. People generally seem to look out for each other more here.
Bosnians are predominately Muslim. One can hear the call to prayer five times a day here. It is currently Ramadan now, where most people are fasting for a month (they are able to eat and drink water before sunrise and after sunset). I think most would describe them as more liberal Muslims. There are few countries in Europe that are Muslim, so they are in a unique place.
Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina went through the longest siege in modern warfare during 1992-1995. The horrendous Siege of Sarajevo killed nearly 14,000. They are certainly still recovering from this.
Arriving to lush green space, great European coffee (albeit small), and our creatively decorated school.
Finding new running spaces.
Landmines are a legit concern here. During the Siege of Sarajevo, landmines were placed all over the mountains and there is little chance of them all being cleared, ever.
I learned you have to stay on the path, pay attention to landmine warning signs, and know that they move with the seasons.
Fun run with the kids. NGO Marathon Sarajevo is a great running group that organizes lots of cool races in the city.
Birthday celebrations with new friends. Luckily, B made quick friendships with his classmates, as his birthday happened not long after arriving.
Sarajevo is famously known as a foggy city.
Castles, archery practice, and fall colors. This is at Vranduk Castle near the town of Zenica, about 45 minutes from Sarajevo.
Fall Festival costumes and Halloween cookies. Baking in the fall is the best.
If you know our family at all, you know we love Halloween. And by we, I mean me.
A brisk hike with the family to the beautiful Skakavac Waterfalls before winter arrives. I was so proud of B that he made the whole 12 km hike.
Warming up with tea time after playing outside.
Cheers to beer sampling and friends.
Winter started off strong. We had a busy and productive first semester at our school, Lady H saw her first snowfall, and B reveled in snow forts and snowball fights. The house was cozy–there was baking, hot tea, wine, spices, and lots of good food. We snuggled under blankets and stayed inside more than we usually do. That meant movies, popcorn, museums, and having friends over to share in the holiday season. We did manage to defy the icy roads and dark days by getting out into the mountains for some snowy hikes and to escape the pollution that hangs over the city in winter. We traveled over our three week break. Everything is so close so we drove to Slovenia, Austria, Hungary, and Slovakia in that time. Around February I decided I had had enough of winter and it really started to get to get into my head. It seemed longer than I remembered from my Kazakhstan and Idaho winters, but maybe it wasn’t. Running in snow, ice, and pollution eventually got to me, too. At first it seemed novel and exciting, then it felt tedious and frustrating. Let’s just say, I was beyond thankful when temperatures slowly started to increase and the days started to get longer. My body soaked in every extra drop of Vitamin D until I felt normal again.
Lady H turned two this year! She loves Elmo, her brother, her new friends and nanny, and cake. She was happy little girl to have all of this in one place.
The night of the Christmas performance.
The staff Christmas party and the Goldfish Bar with new friends.
The Gaines’ crew still gets outside, even in winter. Some are happier about it than others. I won’t name names.
We got to celebrate Christmas at home before heading out on our European vacation. Santa brought presents and sparklers.
I don’t think I have ever felt more grateful for any other spring in the histories of springs. Hyperbole? No. Winter was rough, spring has been gorgeous. Everything is so green and the sun is blazing. Bosnians are emerging from their homes, the city seems alive and active, shops have reopened that were closed through winter, and the pollution has lifted. We have gotten outside every single opportunity possible.
Enjoying the sun on a hike above Hotel Cavljak. There is a cool little tea shop at the top that we always stop at to enjoy the view.
Beautiful, warm spring morning runs. The first picture is known as the Latin Bridge. This is where Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria and his wife, Sophie, Duchess of Hohenburg were assassinated, starting World War One.
Vrelo Bosne in the spring–she’s a knockout.
B doing his 5k. We had a nice post run meal at Vucko, our favorite restaurant in Sarajevo.
I’m a lucky lady to have these people as my tribe. The spoiled me for Mother’s Day by taking me to Four Rooms.
And again, they spoiled me for my birthday. Mr. G made me a strawberry birthday cake and we went to another favorite restaurant, Blind Tiger.
A solo run and then hike with the family around Trebević mountain.
I would highly recommend traveling to Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina. I think most would consider it is a little known place, but there is so much see and do here. We are looking forward to seeing new places next year, like Lukomir, Kravica Waterfalls, Štrbački Buk, seeing more of Jahorina, going to the National Theatre, maybe find a vineyard to visit, check out Tito’s bunker, do some Visočica hiking, possibly see Srebrenica if we can handle the heartbreaking recent history there, and Počitelj (an old Medieval castle and town outside of Mostar), and possibly check out Jajce (the old capital in the 14th century when it was the Kingdom of Bosnia. Cool factor–it has catacombs). There is so much to see and do, and we haven’t even scratched the surface. It takes time to become familiar with a new country and I would say we are still sussing out how it all works here. We are really happy we made the leap and decided to explore a new land, even if it did mean we lost sight of the familiarity from our previous homes.
It is getting hot out there. Time to talk about how to survive the heat and still log your running miles. Here are some tips that I can offer after years of running in the heat and humidity.
1. Frozen water bottle. Carry a frozen water bottle and alternate hands. Even put it on your neck to help keep your core temperature down. When it starts to melt, pour it over your head. Your hands, head, and feet are where heat is trying to escape from, so these are the areas you want to concentrate on cooling down.
2. Ice cubes. Stuff ice cubes in your sports bra, pockets, or under your hat. This also helps keep your core temperature down.
3. Run early in the morning. It is best to try to run before sunrise if possible, but that may not be feasible for everyone. Run as early as you can, and if that isn’t an option, run in shaded areas.
4. Hydrate. Remember to drink some water before you leave, during your run, and when you get back. When temperatures rise, I weigh myself before and after a run to help keep track of the water weight lost. I will lose up to 7 pounds in water weight and that needs to be replaced. That’s a lot of water.
5. Extra electrolytes. It is important not to create an imbalance with your electrolytes. This can lead to all sorts of problems like lethargy, dizziness, and muscle issues. When you sweat, you aren’t just sweating water. Replace electrolytes with things like Nuun, electrolyte tablets, or coconut water. I always shoot for products that don’t have much sugar in them.
6. Wear fewer clothes. Adjust your wardrobe to tank tops or go shirtless. Always wear shorts instead of leggings. This may mean you need to throw on some Vaseline or other product to reduce chaffing. Ugh. ‘Tis the season for chaffing.
7. Sunglasses. Wear UV protective sunglasses if you are running after sunrise. Everyone is talking about Goodr, which are designed for especially for running. They are on my wish-list.
8. Wear light colors. Never wear dark colored shirts when it gets really hot or if you are running during mid-day, as it absorbs more heat.
9. Run by feel. Run by exertion rather than your watch. Accept that you will be slower.
10. Time to adapt. It takes about two weeks to adapt to warmer conditions, so give yourself time to get used to the heat. When summer starts, it can be hard to cope, but over time, it does get easier—your body can adjust and adapt to most conditions.
11. Go inside. If you need to, go inside to the dreadmill. No runner wants to hear this, but sometimes it might be the best choice. Heat stroke is real.
12. Cold shower. I even know people that will take a cold shower in their running clothes before heading out. I personally haven’t done this, but I look like I have when I am done.
I signed up for this one because although I have done a few marathons, only my first two were flat. The last race I did without big elevation gains were a few years ago in the Thailand heat. Between more years of experience running and not being in such a hot and humid environment, I would like to shoot for a PR. We’ll see…
It is a ‘Christmas in July’ theme, so that should be fun. I will need to brush off my red and green compression socks and maybe find some candy canes instead of gels. I don’t know. I don’t Christmas well.
This is a tough race. I also did this one last year and it was nuts. I got lost (I will actually blog about this in the future) during a full-on blizzard. They moved it up a couple of weeks into September instead of October this year for weather reasons, I assume. It is in an absolutely gorgeous area–the mountains of Sarajevo and Vogosca. The after party looked really fun, but I was too out of it last year to fully enjoy it. Here’s to hoping this year I can enjoy the band, food, and drinks after the race a bit more.
Croatia is one of my favorite countries and this race follows the Dalmatian Coastline, so what wouldn’t be to love? It also lands over our school holiday, so I could enjoy it more without feeling too rushed to get back.
We will be making this one into a mini-holiday as it is over a regular weekend. Luckily, it isn’t too far of a drive—four hours or so. It is in a little town we have yet to explore, so this will be our chance to see a new area. It looks like a fairly low-key race, which I love. I am not a huge fan of overpopulated races. I am looking forward to this one!
What are you signed up for? Share in the comments!
My mom and her husband were visiting us in Bosnia and Herzegovina for our spring break. They had been hanging out and touring Sarajevo for a week prior to our holiday while we worked. Then to kick off spring break, we took off to Mostar, a town in the Herzegovina region of Bosnia and Herzegovina, famous for Stari Most (Old Bridge) over the Neretva River. It was built in the 16th century by the Ottomans. In 1993, the bridge was destroyed in the war, but has been completely rebuilt. They recovered many of the original stones from the river to reconstruct it. It is probably the most recognizable structure in Bosnia and Herzegovina.
Reasons to Visit Mostar
Somehow, Mostar still manages to be off most people’s travel radar. If you have the chance, you should work your way over to it. It is so worth it.
Here are some highlights about the small town:
Apparently people have been bridge diving since 1664. In recent history, Red Bull now puts on a festival where people continue this tradition.
2. Pose on the bridge for some pretty sweet pictures.
3. They also have incredible street art and metal art work for sale. I sadly did not get any pictures of the street art. Guess I will have to go back!
We also did not see the famous Kravice Waterfalls, and I am sucker for waterfalls, so we really will be making a trip back soon.
After all that touring around the town, I got to see another, more rural perspective on foot the next day.
Half Marathon Day
I was a nervous wreck before the race. I knew I wanted a PR, but I wasn’t sure I was capable of it. I also didn’t voice this to anyone for fear I would somehow jinx it. Whenever I am going into new territory, I get nervous. It is okay though. I am not scared of being scared. It means you care, and when you care, the outcome is better.
I did all the things you are supposed to do. I trained. I ran far. I ran faster in my training. I did hill repeats. I ate better. I slept more. I even tapered, albeit a small amount because one doesn’t need to cut back too much for a half. Usually I don’t at all, but tried it out for this race. It really isn’t that complicated when it comes to knowing what one should do to improve their running. If you want to improve your speed, run faster during training. If you want to improve your endurance, run farther. Running is a simple and resourceful sport, direct in the fact that it is about putting one foot in front of the other, effective in its purpose, and a deeply innate part of being human.
The thing that I think helped me the most though, was that I just pretended to be someone that could make a sub 1:45 half marathon. I just told myself if I can’t be the person that gets that time, just pretend to. It worked. I ran a 1:43. Fake it ’til you make it.
I know on the grand scale of amazing runners out there, running a 1:43 isn’t anything special, but it was to me. I had been stuck at 1:47 as my personal best prior to this race, but most halfs had been 1:52-1:55. Granted, those were all in Thailand, so really hot and humid conditions, which hurt most people’s race times.
I had slept well the night before. I carb loaded correctly. The weather was perfect–mid-50s, clear skies. The course was mostly flat and lots of beautiful scenery. I had my mom, her husband, my kids, and my husband all there to support me. Really, it was a perfect combination of conditions to do a PR.
Between good conditions and self-delusion, I did it.
I truly have a runners’ mind though–now I want a 1:40. 😆
Hoka One One Challenger ATR 3: Worn, Dirty, and Loved
I would just like to preface with I am not being paid by Hoka to write this. I just really, really like Hokas.
The Hoka ATR 3 is technically for the trail, but because it is light weight, it can easily be worn for both the road and trail. I have been running 70-90 km (44-56 miles) a week for over two months in mine now on both road and trail. My one complaint with the Challenger is that for extreme conditions, like lots of slippery mud or snow, there isn’t enough grip. However, for a standard trail in good weather conditions, there is plenty of traction.
As for the fit and comfort, it is pretty perfect for me. The toe box offers plenty of room, which from what I have read, is an improvement from previous models. It feels stable one rocky terrain. The arch support is really good, but I put in an insole for added support. I have tried a few different insoles but the one below seem to work best for me.
I have struggled with plantar fasciitis since my last pregnancy, but running in Hokas has completely fixed it for me. For a year, I had to tape my foot a special way before each run or I would be in excruciating pain. I had tried everything to fix it, down to acupuncture, but nothing worked. I read somewhere on the depths of the internet about Hokas being good for plantar fasciitis. I bought a pair, started running in them, and within a week, I was nearly pain free. I didn’t need to tape my foot any more. After a couple of weeks, it was 99% gone, and that is where I am now.
I just ran my first 50k Ultra in the Hoka Challenger ATR 3, and I only lost one toenail (not bad for an ultra!), had one blister, and my plantar fasciitis didn’t bother me at all. They are good for the long run.